MURAM, Museum of Modern Art, Museo Regional de Arte Moderno

The MURAM in Cartagena is housed in the 125-year-old Palacio de Aguirre

This museum is housed in the Palacio Aguirre, one of the most architecturally important buildings of Cartagenas modernist movement.

It  is located on the corner of Plaza de la Merced and Calle San Diego, an area which was a major  residential area for the bourgoise property owners of the 19^th and 20th century on the site of the former Conventa de Nuestra Senora de la Merced.

The convent was first built in 1708, but was demolished in 1835, and the modern-day Plaza established at this point. This residential area became highly sought after by the wealthy mine owners and businessmen who gave the city its modernist aspect in the 19^th and 20^th centuries, as the mines in nearby la Unión ate lives and made money for their owners.

The Palacio Aguirre was constructed by successful businessman Camilo Aguirre on the site of the old convent, designed by modernist architect, Victor Beltri who is resonsible for so  many of the emblematic buildings in Cartagena, his brief in this instance being to create a landmark building which flew the flag of the modernist movement.

The first plans he presented in 1899 were ruled to be too traditional and modest, and the designs for this striking building were finally accepted in 1901.

Sadly, by 1917, the industrialist was dead, and the building was sold on by his heirs, being used for a number of different purposes until it became the property of the state in 1982. Shut up for 15 years, it fell into a sad state of disrepair and in 1997 plans were put in place to modernise and restore it.

Although parts of the old palace are still intact, the building which visitors see today is unrecognizable as a historic building, the front part a sea of glass and chrome which whilst fitting for a museum of modern art bears no resemblance to the magnificence with which the palace would have been furnished when in use as a family home. Parts of the original building are still intact and can be visited separately on a guided basis, cocooned by the glass and chrome of the modern building around it.

Although its stunning modern architecture, its a labyrinth of a building with many floors, and although there is a lift for those with limited mobility, its an exhausting place to visit as there are just so many floors and so many stairs.

The museum hosts exhibitions of modern art throughout the year and entry is free of charge

Opening hours of the MURAM, Museo regional de Arte Moderno,  Cartagena Spain

Tuesday-Saturday 11am- 2pm and 5pm to 8pm
Sunday and Festival days, 11am-2pm
Closed: 1st January, 25th December, Holy Friday, Day of the Romans and Carthaginians.
24th and 31st December 11am to 2pm.

MURAM

Plaza de la Merced 15 and 16
Tel : 968 501 607
Click for map.

Parking practicalities and other information.

Around the Plaza is blue parking, which is metered parking and there is a little bit further along the Calle San Diego in front of the Hotel Habaneros.

One of the most useful parking areas to know about is behind the Plaza de la Merced in front of the former Town hall building. This whole area was flattened and is now quite run down but is a very useful area for parking. The area is quite rough, (and is known for its immigrant population and prostitution) but generally lads will ask for money to look after the car in your absence. Our strategy is always to say well pay when we get back if the car hasnt been damaged and then pay them a euro when we get back. The car has not been damaged in several years of attending exhibitions.

Talking of eating, check out the little tiny Panaderia Maestre in Calle San Diego, on the way up towards the Habaneros. This tiny little bakery still uses a wood fired oven which is heated with almond and olive logs and almond husks, and has been run by the same family for over a century.

The Danish pastries just melt in the mouth, theyre really superb and once youve tried them once, youll be popping into the MURAM on a regular basis to see if there are any new exhibitions on....

The Plaza de la Merced is also the location for a highly charged meeting of Jesus and Mary during Semana Santa. On the day of the patrona, Viernes de Dolores, the Via Crucis takes place and the statues are carried on enormous tronos by over 100 people, Mary by women, Jesus by men. Having walked through the streets in convoy they go their separate ways around the Plaza and meet facing each other to the applause of the crowds. As they sway and bow to each other, lit only by torches, tumultuous applause signals the beginning of a firework display, and they part, returning to the church.

Its a really special moment and well worth attending if you can. The MURAM is also a participant in the annual Noche de los Museos, the Night of the Museums which takes place in May, with all the museums open until the early hours of the morning for visitors, the centres laying on musical entertainment and activities for their thousands of visitors, making this one of the busiest nights of the year in Cartagena.