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Alfaz del Pi (L’Alfas del Pi) Today
Scandinavians have followed the Romans and the Moors to Alfaz del Pi
The municipality of Alfaz del Pi (or, in Valenciano, L'Alfàs del Pi) is one which in some ways is overshadowed by its neighbours of Benidorm and Altea but which nonetheless has its own unique identity.
The historic origins of Alfaz del Pi are nicely illustrated demonstrated by its name: “Alfaz” derives from the Arabic “al-fahs”, which means crop field, and demonstrates that the town we know today was founded during the long years of Moorish rule which ended in 1258. However, until the 18th century it was known as “Alfaz de Polop”, and the distinctive “Pi” was not grafted into the name until 1786 in commemoration of the planting of the large pine tree which can still be seen in the Plaza Mayor.
But the Moors were by no means the first people to settle in this part of the coastline of the Marina Baja area of Alicante. Two kilometres away from the town centre, on the coast, is El Albir, which nowadays is much like any other coastal development except for the presence of the remains of a large 5th century Roman villa, including a burial ground. Many of the items found here are now on display in the Roman museum of El Albir.
Nowadays too the town of Alfaz del Pi is occupied by hordes of invaders from abroad, although this time it can be said that they are invaders of a rather different kind. Of the population of 21,700 only 44% are Spanish, with the rest consisting primarily of northern Europeans who have purchased retirement or holiday homes in this part of the Costa Blanca. Over 3,000 of these residents are British, but for once they are easily outnumbered by a different expat community: Alfaz del Pi, remarkably, is home to the second largest Norwegian expatriate population in the world, smaller only than that of London.
The official Norwegian population is around 5,000, but some estimate that if the “floating population” is taken into account the real figure is nearer double that. As a result, the town is well supplied with Norwegian shops and other manifestations of Scandinavian culture – there is even a Norwegian school here - and is twinned with Oslo. Not that only Scandinavians will feel at home here: the golf driving range at El Albir doubles up as the local cricket club, and in all over 100 nationalities are represented on the local electoral roll!
Located just to the north of the Sierra Helada, which separates Alfaz from Benidorm, the municipality features the long beach of El Albir and various smaller coves such as those of La Mina, El Médico and el Amerador. These are overlooked by the Torre Bombarda (a watchtower which was built to spot Berber pirate raiders in the Middle Ages) and a recently restored 17th century lighthouse which is now home to the Sierra Helada visitors centre. The path up to the lighthouse provides a perfect opportunity to enjoy the landscape of the Sierra, and of course to enjoy panoramic views out over Alfaz and beyond towards Altea.
In among the numerous residential developments in the countryside of Alfaz it is also still possible to find some of the mills which were built along irrigation channels for the local vineyards and citrus orchards in the 16th century. These were provided by the generosity of Baroness Beatriz Fajardo de Mendoza, and were part of a system which also benefitted Polop, La Nucia and Benidorm, but although some of them are still in working order the main pillar of the local economy has been tourism ever since the town began to expand in the 1960s.
As a result of this expansion Norwegian salmon is now found on the shelves of shops in Alfaz alongside the local seafood specialities, while dark Scandinavian breads proliferate along with the typical delicacies of the Costa Blanca: an unusual combination, and which clearly proves attractive to large numbers of north Europeans!